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Frequently Used Climbing Knots

June 25, 2012

Knots are an essential skill to be comfortable with.  They can be confusing at first, but with some practice they become quick and easy.  Knowing a variety of knots, and their correct use can make climbing safer and more fun.  In this article I will discuss some of the more frequently used knots and their uses.

The Bowline

Uses

-Tieing in
-Tieing off anchors
-Fixing the rope

How to Tie

http://www.animatedknots.com/bowline/

-a variation is the double bowline, where instead of making a single initial loop, you throw in two loops to pass the rope through

http://www.ehow.com/video_2355217_tie-double-bowline-knot.html

Retraced Figure Eight

Uses

-Tieing In

How to tie

http://www.animatedknots.com/fig8follow/index.php

Figure Eight on a Bight and Overhand on a Bight

Uses

-Anchors
-Fixing the rope
-Closing the rope system
-Tieing in the end of the rope to avoid rappelling off the ends
-Backing up devices in rescue work
– many many more

How to tie

Figure Eight
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/F8Knots.htm

Overhand
http://www.ehow.com/video_4467995_tie-overhand-loop-knot.html

Munter Hitch

Uses
-Belaying
-Lowering

How To tie

http://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/munter-hitch/

Mule Knot

Uses
-tieing off the belay
-fixing the rope
-rescue
-Releasable under load

How to tie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ7VowhE5DI

Clove Hitch

Uses

-Tethering
-Fixing the rope
-Anchoring

How to tie

http://www.animatedknots.com/clove/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com&Categ=boating

Prussik (Most Friction)

Uses
-Backing up rappels
-Transferring Load
-Pulleys
-Ascending the rope

How to Tie

http://www.animatedknots.com/prusik/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Klemheist (Medium Friction)

Uses
-Backing up rappels
-Transferring Load
-Pulleys
-Ascending the rope

How to Tie

http://www.animatedknots.com/klemheist/

Autoblock (Least Friction)

Uses
-Backing up rappels

How to tie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgUqWDEweuU&feature=fvwrel

Mariners Hitch

Uses

-Releasable under load
-Rescue

How to tie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PSlFodqGJs

Alpine Butterfly

Uses

-tieing into the middle of the rope

How to tie

http://www.animatedknots.com/alpinebutterfly/index.php?Categ=climbing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

 

BFK

Uses

-Making a redundant Master Point

How to tie

http://earthworksclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/04/what-is-bhk.html

 

Double Fishermans

Uses

– Connecting two ropes
-Tieing ends Together
-Finishing Knots

How to tie

http://www.animatedknots.com/doublefishermans/index.php

-This link shows joining two ropes together.  The knot tied in both the blue and the red rope is a double fisherman’s.

There are Hundreds of knots that are applicable to climbing.  Again, these are the most frequently used and should suffice in most situations.

Happy Sending!

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